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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.